Jay started making wine in the Willamette Valley over twenty years ago, but not until 2010 did he begin experimenting with making “Black Chardonnay.” Let’s be thankful he never looked back. Since 2011, Jay’s EIEIO chardonnays have delivered richly textured, luscious wines with great depth supported by balanced acidity. While his wines are reminiscent of those from other great winegrowing regions, it is best to avoid comparisons; because though his chardonnays flirt with Meursault they dance by themselves. Jay’s 2016 “Yates Conwill” Chardonnay from the Willamette Valley is no exception. And with only 18 cases remaining of the 75 cases he produced, I recommend you grab some fast.
The rolling contours of the Yates Conwill vineyard are tucked into the foothills of the Oregon Coast Range near the far western edge of the Yamhill Carlton AVA. At 350 feet above sea level, the aspect is south-to-southeast facing and the vines enjoy maritime influences, so in a warm vintage such 2016, the vineyard stays cooler than most sites in the region. The soils are shallow marine sedimentary over fractured basalt forcing the vines to dig deep for water and nutrients while allowing the grapes to mature slowly throughout the growing season. Jay harvests his chardonnay from Yates Conwill relatively early allowing the vineyard to bring freshness and acidity to the final wine. The grape clusters are picked in the wee hours of the morning and once they arrive to the winery, the black magic begins.
The 2016 Yates Conwill Chardonnay is pale gold with aromas of bright lemon curd, orange peach, white flowers and rosemary blossoms. Delivering a lush, full-figured texture across the mid-palate, flavors of apricot and warm, sundrenched pineapple cruise toward the finish with notes of sesame and slightly toasted ancient grains. The wine is deep in flavor, rich in texture and will continue to draw you back to the glass.
While drinking this wine is a contemplative experience on its own, you would be well-served to enjoy it with food. And when I think of chardonnay and food, my mind is drawn immediately to lobster: Do you want to a hit of lemon juice over the knuckle or do you want to dip the claw in butter? Which is to say, do you want to brighten your dish with acidity or enrich the dish with pleasure? The answer, of course, is both, which is why chardonnay goes perfectly with food. While Jay’s chardonnay will pair well with a broad range of dishes including steamed lobster, to me, it screams chicken thighs brined in Bubbies pickle juice, breaded in panko and pan-fried. Trust me on this!